1995-2002 Toyota 4Runner Fog Light Installation Using Factory Fog Light Prewire

I recently installed aftermarket fog lights on a 2000 Toyota 4Runner (Third Generation). I was able to use some of the factory wiring that was already ran for optional factory fog lights.

Under the hood on the driver side, you should be able to locate the fuse/relay panel. The fog lights fuse/relay location are normally clearly marked on the top plastic cover. 

The fog light circuit is typically fused at 15 amps. If the vehicle didn't come equipped with the factory fog lights, there will most likely be no relay in the location. If you look at the relay location you will notice five female spade connectors. The two larger spade connectors on the right side are the ones I used (A and B. One should meter constant 12V, the other should meter continuity to the pink wires on the factory fog light harnesses.

The factory fog light harnesses should be taped up behind the bumper. On each side, they are pretty easy to find.

On the factory fog light harnesses you should have two wires

White/Black - Ground

Pink - Goes up to fuse/relay panel in engine bay (Positive)

If you connect your aftermarket fog lights, to the wires at the factory fog light harnesses. White/Black wires should connect to ground wires coming off the aftermarket lights, Pink wires should be connected to the positive wires coming off the aftermarket lights. Now when you jump terminals A and B at the factory fog light relay location, you should be able to power up your new fog lights. The fog lights I installed required about 8 amps of current with the vehicle off.

Now all I did was run two wires one from terminal A and one from terminal B, though the fire wall into the vehicle and connected them to an on/off switch.

  

You will always want to make sure to use a switch that is appropriately rated for this application. If I remember correctly I used a switch rated to handle 25 amps @12 Volts.

 Hope this helps!

's     

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Volvo XC90 Aftermarket Stereo Installation

If you haven't installed an aftermarket stereo into a Volvo XC90, then you may find this car audio tip helpful.

The stereo removal is pretty easy if you need step by step direction for removal I will post a link bellow.

Metra 99-9225 Dash Kit Instructions

Along with a dash kit, you will also need an aftermarket antenna if you want to be able to get reception with your new aftermarket stereo. I will post a link to the antenna I typically use bellow.

Universal Window-mount Antenna 

If your going to be integrating the factory steering wheel controls you will also need a SWC interface, like the one bellow.

Axxess ASWC

Moving on, once the stereo/ac control panel is removed you will need to separate the face of the stereo from everything els. Make sure the key is completely out of the ignition switch before disconnecting any wire harnesses. Do not place the key back into the ignition switch until you have reconnected all necessary harnesses. 

The main LCD display will need to be reconnected and remain in the vehicle to allow the factory components to function properly. In order to make this possible you will first need to remove the LCD display from the stereo panel. 

The CD changer portion of the stereo can be removed, and will no longer be used. The main LCD will need to be reconnected and set aside.

This is the CD changer harness. Other than the two orange fiber optics cables there should be three wires.

12V Constant - Violet/White 

Switched 12V - Violet

Ground - Brown

When I wired up the new stereo harness I tapped into the Violet/White for my 12V Constant at this harness, but I tapped into the cigarette outlet power for my Switched 12V and ground because I know the cigarette outlet is rated for more current.

The wires coming off the cigarette outlet harness should be,

Switched 12V - Violet

Ground - Black 

Once you have connected your main power wires for your stereo, and any accessories like the power antenna, SWC interface, you will need to connect your speakers. The Volvo XC90 I installed this stereo in had what was called the eight speaker system. Some will come with the twelve speaker system, with an optional sub. If the vehicle your installing the new stereo in has the twelve speaker system you will need an additional amp to power the additional speakers. Otherwise some speakers will be lost including the factory sub. 

The speaker wires can be found back bellow where the factory stereo/ac controls mount, in the dash.

Front Left Positive - Gray/Red

Front Left Negative - Gray

Front Right Positive - Gray/Red

Front Right Negative - Gray

Rear Left Positive - Gray/White

Rear Left Negative - Gray

Rear Right Positive - Gray/White

Rear Right Negative - Gray

As you can see you will need to meter and pop the speakers with a 1.5V battery to identify what side the speaker is on.

 After locating the speaker wires you will want to cut each pair. One side will be coming from the factory amp, the other side will be going to each set of speakers. You shouldn't need to use the side that runs down towards the factory amp under the passenger seat. The other side should be the side that runs to each set of speakers, you will want to test this side with a digital multi meter. You should get a reading of around 2ohms on each pair of speaker wires. Now depending on the stereo your installing, will depend on how you will want to wire these factory speaker to your new stereo. If your new stereo doesn't support 2ohm speakers, then you may need to wire the front left and rear left speakers in series and the front right and rear right speakers in series to get the impedance up to around 4ohms. You will lose your "Fade" in the stereos settings, along with some volume and quality but should allow you to power the factory speakers off the aftermarket stereo without adding an aftermarket amp. If you are also installing new speakers then you shouldn't have to worry about the impedance of the factory speakers.

After you have all your wiring taken care of, you will want to place and secure the main LCD nicely bellow the stereo. I normally rap it in carpet.

That's just about it, sometimes you will have to cut out some of the plastic behind the stereo to get it to fit in just right. One other thing you may want to be aware of is the headphone controls in the back of the vehicle will be lost. 

If you happend to trigger the AIR BAG LIGHT then you will need to get that code deleted at the dealership, or if you want to do it yourself you can purchase a diagnostics tool like this. 

It is the Autel AutoLink AL619

Anyway I hope this helps!

- 'S

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Ford F-Series Super Duty Trucks - Wiring Factory Auxiliary Upfitter Switches

If you are looking to use the factory upfitter switches in a Ford F-Series Super Duty Truck (F-150, F250, F350, F450, F550) then this tip may be helpful to you. 

The 4 factory switches are typically located on the lower passenger side of the dash, below the stereo.

 They can be used to power and control additional accessories, when the vehicles ignition switch is in the on position.  

The auxiliary upfitter switch wires aren't typically the wires you will clearly see right bellow the driver side steering column. 

You can typically find the wires and the relays under the plastic cover, located on the end of the driver side dash.

Once that cover is removed, you should see the black relay pack. 

You can remove the black cover to reveal the 4 auxiliary switch relays. The output wires will be located below the relay pack, coming out of factory black split loom. 

 Near the output wires, you should see a white tag that identifies the aux output wire colors with the aux switch number. 

AUX 1 - Yellow

AUX 2 - Green/Brown

AUX 3 - Violet/Green

AUX 4 - Brown 

You should be able to located the fuses for the auxiliary switches in the fuse panel to identify the max current for each switch. I believe AUX 1-2 are 30 Amps, and AUX 3-4 are 10 Amps.

If you need more room to work, you can unclip the relay pack and pull it out under the driver steering column right near the parking brake.

You can also then gain access to the wiring off the back of each auxiliary relay.

Hope this helps!

-

 

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Mercedes Benz ML 350 Overhead Installation

 I recently had the pleasure of installing an overhead LCD/DVD player in a new 2013 Mercedes Benz with a sunroof. Not to much different from any other vehicle with a sunroof, just had to really pay attention to details.   

I placed the overhead up to the headliner, to get an idea of where it would look and function the best. Once I had an idea of where I wanted it, I checked for clearance by dropping the driver side of the headliner. I then placed the metal mounting plate in the center of the chosen location, and double checked my measurements.

Once I had it centered, I traced it onto the headliner.

Time to cut the headliner, I slowly cut the piece of the headliner out with a razor.

(Always make sure the sun roof and sun shade are in the closed position!)

Once the piece was cut and removed, I checked for proper fitment.

The back of the overhead mounting plate will be secured to the roofs re-enforcement bracket that runs across the roof of the vehicle. The front will be supported by the headliner.

I riveted a piece of ABS plastic to the front egde of the metal mounting plate. This piece of ABS will rest on the top side of the headliner so when the overhead LCD/DVD player is mounted to this plate the headliner will be sandwiched in-between.

The dome light is a positive trigger system.

Constant 12 Volt - Pink/Black

Positive Dome Light Trigger - Gray/Black

Ground - Brown

On the back of the center consul there should be a power outlet that is switched power. 

That's where I tapped into switched power.

I used short steel rivets to secure the back side of the mounting plate to the vehicles re-enforcement braket. I had a little less then 1/4th inch to work with and using screws was just to risky. 

One other thing you must be carful with is where you run your wires, I ran mine in the little channel of space I had between the headliner and the re-enforcement braket that runs across the roof. If you don't run your wires properly you will get marks/scratches on the sun shade. 

Once I had my wires run and mounting plate secured, I mounted the overhead and tripple checked clearance. 

It was a tight fit but came out perfect!

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